Les Baux vs. Sanary: The ULTIMATE French Riviera Showdown!
Les Baux vs. Sanary: The ULTIMATE French Riviera Showdown! (Or, My Wallet vs. My Sanity)
Alright, buckle up, buttercups, because we’re diving headfirst into the glamorous – and often, utterly bonkers – world of the French Riviera. Specifically, we’re throwing down the gauntlet and staging a showdown between two contenders: the impossibly picturesque, perched-on-a-cliff village of Les Baux-de-Provence, and the sun-drenched, slightly less pretentious, port town of Sanary-sur-Mer.
First, the disclaimer: Let's be real, this isn’t some objective, sterile travelogue. This is my experience, my biases, my love-hate relationship with travel budgeting, and my crippling fear of public transport.
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Round 1: Accessibility & The Agony of Climbing (and Not-Climbing)
Let's start with a cold, hard truth: the French Riviera ain't exactly wheelchair-friendly. Now, BOTH locations have their challenges.
- Les Baux – The Cliffhanger: Forget accessibility. I mean, forget it. Picture this: cobblestone streets that could trip a mountain goat, steep inclines that’d make a marathon runner weep, and ancient architecture that laughs in the face of elevators. The views are stunning, but if you're relying on assistance, you will need a serious plan, maybe even a Sherpa. Some hotels might have adapted rooms, but be prepared to call way in advance and clarify. ( Accessibility: 1/10 – Unless you're Indiana Jones, good luck! )
- Sanary - Port Life, More Practical: Sanary is marginally better. The waterfront is relatively flat, and some hotels and restaurants are on the ground floor. However, the older parts of town still have narrow streets and uneven surfaces. Finding truly wheelchair-accessible experiences requires proactive research and phone calls. The port-side promenade makes things relatively easier. ( Accessibility: 4/10 – Slightly less treacherous, but still work to do. )
Winner: Sanary (by a hair… and some serious planning.)
On-site Accessible Restaurants/Lounges: This is a mixed bag. Neither location screams "accessible dining." Expect to call ahead and inquire, checking for ramps, accessible restrooms, and clear pathways.
Internet Access / Wi-Fi: Keeping Connected or Craving Connection
- Internet: (sighs dramatically) Okay, let's be frank. I need Wi-Fi like I need air. I’m a freelance writer, a hopeless Instagram addict, and a constant worrier about being "out of touch."
- Free Wi-Fi in all Rooms!: Thankfully, in all the places I stayed (and I'm talking various price ranges), Wi-Fi was usually promised. It's a modern necessity… and sometimes, a cruel tease. (More on this below…)
Internet [LAN]: (Deep sigh.) LAN connections are a rarity these days. Let's be real, unless you're a hardcore gamer or a digital nomad clinging to ancient tech, forget it.
Internet Services: These were generally provided, but quality varied drastically.
Wi-Fi in Public Areas: Everywhere promised Wi-Fi. Which, again, meant: "Hope for the best, prepare for the worst."
My Wi-Fi Lament (and a Confession): Remember that crucial writing deadline? The one where my whole life depended on submitting that travel article? Yep. The hotel Wi-Fi in Les Baux decided to transform my laptop into a decorative brick. Cue panic. My sanity crumbled. I ended up having to tether to my phone, chew through my precious data allowance, and curse the picturesque beauty that was slowly destroying my career. ( Emotional aftermath: 2/10…mostly because I submitted the article in the end. )
Winner: Draw… because Wi-Fi is a cruel mistress, regardless of location. Always have a backup plan (and a data allowance).
Round 2: Things To Do & Ways to Relax – Or, The Quest for the Perfect Aperol Spritz
This is where the Riviera truly shines.
- Les Baux - History, Views, and a Slight Price Tag: Les Baux is all about the views. Seriously, prepare to be gobsmacked by the panorama. There's the castle ruins (which, yes, involve more climbing), art galleries, and a general sense of historical grandeur. It's breathtaking. But…it's also expensive. Expect inflated prices for everything, including that Aperol Spritz I desperately crave.
- Ways to Relax: Wandering cobblestone streets, looking at the view, imagining you're a medieval noble.
- Sanary - Port Life, Markets, and (Slightly) Less Trauma: Sanary is more vibrant. The charming port, with its brightly colored boats and buzzing weekly market, is what makes this town shine. Seriously. The shops, the food, the people-watching – It’s pure entertainment. There's a more relaxed vibe compared to Les Baux. It's also a much more realistic option for a more prolonged trip, as the cost makes it more manageable.
- Ways to Relax: Strolling the harbor, shopping at markets, enjoying the Aperol Spritz I finally managed to get!
Let the Spa-ing Begin! (My dream, not necessarily reality)
Body Scrub/Wrap: The ultimate luxury. (If I had the budget! Which I didn't… at least, not frequently.) Fitness Center/Gym/Fitness: Some hotels may offer it. But my fitness regime normally involves walking around. (A LOT.) Foot Bath: Tempting. Always tempting. Massage: Oh, yes please! (But expensive!) Pool with view: Yes please!! Sauna/Spa/Steamroom: The pure bliss of… (If I could afford it. Another thing I skipped.) Swimming pool/Swimming pool [outdoor]: This is a must-have for the ultimate relaxation.
Winner: Sanary – For the breadth of the experience, the market, the slightly more reasonable prices, and the chance to actually relax without constantly worrying about how much it's costing!
Round 3: Cleanliness, Safety, and the Sanitization Saga
- Anti-viral cleaning products, Daily disinfection in common areas, Hand sanitizer… In the age of "things", these are now necessities. Both locations seemed to take it seriously. I can't personally verify the effectiveness of any of these, but it was reassuring to see.
A COVID-19 Aside (That I Can't Avoid): Okay, let's talk about the pandemic. In 2023, things were relatively back-to-normal. Mask use was minimal, but hand sanitizer was everywhere. I felt reasonably safe, but I always had my own, and I was vigilant about washing my hands.
- Breakfast in Room/ Breakfast takeaway service: Always a bonus; great for those mornings when you're not feeling social.
- Cashless payment service: Pretty much standard everywhere.
- Individually-wrapped food options/Safe dining setup/Sanitized kitchen and tableware items all appeared to be standard.
- Rooms sanitized between stays: Hopefully!
- Staff trained in safety protocol: This was evident.
My “Sanitary Obsession” (Which is a bit overboard, even for me): I'll admit, I’m a bit of a germophobe. I probably over-used hand sanitizer. I wiped down everything. And that's me.
Winner: Draw, with a slight edge to the places that prioritized hygiene.
Round 4: Dining, Drinking, and Snacking – The Glorious Gastronomic Gauntlet
This is the heart of the Riviera experience, right?
- Les Baux - Tourist Trap, But With Views: The restaurants in Les Baux are, well, tourist level. The food can be hit-or-miss. The salad could be great with the view of the gorgeous landscape and the soup was great. I had an international dish that was okay. The prices, however, are consistently high. The bar was fun.
- Sanary - More Local, More Authentic: Sanary's a different story. The markets are brimming with fresh produce. There are seafood shacks, traditional bistros, and cafes galore. You can find everything here. The food is generally MUCH better (and often, cheaper). From fresh salads, soups, and international cuisine. The cocktails were exquisite.
Let's talk specifics:
- A la carte in restaurant/Buffet in restaurant: Both present.
- Alternative meal arrangement: (Dietary requirements were generally catered to, but always check.)
- Asian cuisine in restaurant: (Rare, but you might find it.)
- Bottle of water: (Essential!)
- Coffee/tea in restaurant / Coffee shop: Essential - or, at least,
Alright, buckle up, buttercups, because this itinerary isn't your pristine, perfectly-planned travel brochure. This is the REAL DEAL, the messy, glorious, wine-stained truth about my trip to Les Baux-de-Provence and Sanary-sur-Mer. Prepare for opinions, tangents, and the occasional existential crisis.
Day 1: Les Baux - Rocks, Romance, and (Maybe) Revenge?
Morning (8:00 AM - 12:00 PM): Arriving in Avignon – Let's be honest, the train ride really felt longer than it was. I blame the bad coffee and the chatty couple behind me who kept talking about their "perfect Provence getaway." Ugh. Took the car, a rental Citroën I think I know how to drive, and made for Les Baux. The drive itself was stunning, rolling hills and sun-drenched vines. My inner romantic practically swooned… until I realized I’d left my damn sunglasses in Avignon.
- Observation: The air in Provence smells like… well, everything good. Herbs, flowers, earth… even the exhaust fumes somehow have a certain je ne sais quoi.
Late Morning/Early Afternoon (12:00 PM - 3:00 PM): Les Baux-de-Provence – Whoa. Okay, that's the first thought that popped in my head. A medieval fortress perched atop a rocky outcrop. That view! The sheer drama of the place! It’s like stepping onto a movie set.
- Action: Wandered around the ruins. The castle! I think I got lost for about half an hour, convinced I was going to be the next victim of a ghostly ambush. Okay, maybe I read too many historical novels.
- Lunch: Found a charming little restaurant overlooking the valley. Ordered the local special - some kind of hearty stew and wine, a rosé that was a little too "summery" for my taste, but still delicious. The waiter, Pierre, was trying to flirt with me. It was charming, until he brought the wrong dish.
Afternoon (3:00 PM - 5:00 PM): Carrieres de Lumieres – Omg. The Light Quarry. Do NOT miss this. It's exactly what everyone says, but the sheer scale is even more incredible. And the art! I got lost in the projections. It reminded me of when the DJ played my favourite song at a party.
Evening (5:00 PM - ???): Finding a place to stay and my first Provencal wine. Finding a parking space was proving to be a Herculean task. The hotel, Hotel des Baux, was cute enough, but the room was small and the air conditioner sounded like a dying dinosaur. The wine was good, though. Might have had two glasses.
- Ramblings: I'm already starting to understand why people fall in love with this place. The light, the history, the slow pace of life… it's almost hypnotic. Almost. I still miss my sunglasses, though. And the thought of revenge on that couple from the train is still lingering.
Day 2: Sanary-sur-Mer – Sun, Sea, and (Potentially) Sea Sickness!
Morning (9:00 AM - 12:00 PM): The Drive to Sanary – More driving. More stunning scenery. Started to get the hang of the car! (Maybe.)
- Anecdote: I cranked up the radio singing along at the top of my lungs, and probably looked like an absolute weirdo. It was liberating. Had to pee so badly. Missed the turn. Added an extra kilometer to the trip.
Lunch (12:00 PM - 2:00 PM): Arriving and searching for a Bouillabaisse. Sanary-sur-Mer hit me like a postcard. The harbor! The boats! The pastel-colored buildings! I felt like I'd stepped into a children's book. Found a waterfront restaurant. The Bouillabaisse was supposed to be the best. Actually, it was incredible. The broth was rich and savory, the fish was fresh and perfectly cooked, and the whole experience left me feeling a sense of peace. I had to fight the urge to order another and then another.
Afternoon (2:00 PM - 5:00 PM): Coasting, beaching, and wandering around.
- Action: Found a little beach. I think I got a little too much sun. Wandering around the port. Sanary Market. It was overflowing with local produce, spices and trinkets. I wanted everything… until I realized I had no room in my suitcase.
- Quirky Observation: Observed a very serious-looking poodle wearing a tiny sailor hat. The owner probably thought it was adorable. I thought it was hilarious.
Evening (5:00 PM - 8:00 PM): Sunset, Wine, and maybe a little bit of sea sickness. Drank wine watching the sunset. Spectacular. Might have had a third glass. Took a boat tour. Gorgeous views of the coast. Sea sickness kicked in. Ugh. The boat felt like a washing machine.
Night (8:00 PM - ???): Finding my way back to the hotel, eating left-overs, and falling asleep. The hotel's charm was undeniable, despite the fact they apparently have a cat who roams around the breakfast area. Sleep was hard in the heat, and the wine was a very far-away memory.
Day 3: The End (or is it?)
- Morning (8:00 AM - TBC): Waking up, packing, and dreading the long drive back.
- Ramblings: What to take with me… memories, for sure, but also, what else? The scent of lavender? The taste of Bouillabaisse? The memory of that damn poodle in the sailor hat?
- Afternoon (TBC): That's it folks. This trip has been incredible. I feel like I'm more in touch with myself than ever before.
Important Considerations/Emotional Reactions:
- The Sun: Wear sunscreen. Seriously. I ignored this rule for one day and regretted it. (Burned to a crisp!)
- The Wine: Drink it. But not too much. (See previous comments.)
- The People: They are kind, slightly quirky, and mostly willing to put up with my terrible French.
- The Food: Eat everything. Seriously. Everything.
- Overall: This trip was a beautiful mess. It was more real than any picture or video might ever capture. And even thinking about returning is too much, I'm already planning my next trip.
This itinerary? Pure chaos. Pure joy. And hopefully, a little bit of inspiration to go out there and make your own mess. Bon voyage!
Escape to Paradise: Hoang Yen Hotel, Thuan An, Vietnam
Les Baux vs. Sanary: The ULTIMATE French Riviera Showdown! (Brace Yourselves!)
Okay, SERIOUSLY, what's the big deal? Why are we even comparing these two? My brain hurts already.
Alright, alright, settle down. Good question! Honestly, it’s because… well, they’re both *amazing*. The French Riviera is like that. A constant battle of “Oh, THIS is the best!” But they’re *different* kinds of amazing. Les Baux is all dramatic medieval history and breathtaking views. Sanary is a charming fishing village with a *killer* market (more on that later… I SWEAR). It's like choosing between your best friend and that incredibly attractive person you just MET. Both are worth your time... but in different ways. And figuring out which one wins, for *you* specifically? That's the game!
Les Baux-de-Provence: Is it just a bunch of old rocks and dusty history? BORING.
Dude, NO! Okay, yes, there are rocks. LOTS of rocks. And yes, history. But "boring"? NEVER! I went during a heatwave, and I was sweating buckets walking up those darn hills, convinced I was going to die. But then I got to the top, looked out over the Alpilles mountains, and… BAM. Jaw on the floor. Seriously. It's like the entire world is laid out before you. Plus... the *castle*! Wandering through those ruins, imagining knights and sieges... it's pure escapism. My inner child (and my inner history nerd) was absolutely thrilled. Did I mention the shop with the crazy medieval weaponry? Don't judge me, I bought a tiny crossbow. Regret it not.
However... prepare for crowds. And pricey parking. And possibly a slight feeling of vertigo if you're afraid of heights. But the view… the view makes it all worth it. Take water! Seriously.
Sanary-sur-Mer: Sounds cute. Is it...too cute? Like, sickeningly sweet?
Okay, I get it. “Charming fishing village” *can* sound a bit… cookie-cutter. But Sanary actually punches above its weight. Yes, it’s picturesque, with colorful boats bobbing in the harbor and pastel-colored buildings. But it’s also *alive*. The market is… oh my god. The market! It's the heart and soul. So fresh, so vibrant, so *French*. I bought some tapenade, a HUGE baguette, AND a wheel of cheese so strong it could probably make the Eiffel Tower blush. (Okay, maybe a slight exaggeration.) The atmosphere is electric – the shouting vendors, the clinking of glasses… you can practically *taste* the joie de vivre.
The flip side? Tourist traps. They're there. Be prepared to hunt for the good, authentic places tucked away off the main drag. and the crowds, don't go around lunch time hungry.
Food! The most important question. Which place reigns supreme in the culinary arena?
Oof. That's SO tough. Okay, Les Baux: limited options since it's a village. But the restaurants offer views I could DIE for! Pricey.
Sanary? Heaven. Pure, uncomplicated deliciousness. Seafood everywhere! Freshly grilled fish, bouillabaisse that will make you weep with happiness, local wines… I ate *everything*. Seriously, I might've gained five pounds just thinking about it. The market is a huge bonus – grab picnic supplies and eat by the sea.
Okay, fine, they both sound pretty good. But I'm a 'get-away-from-the-crowds' kind of person. Which is better for me?
HAHA! Good luck! Truthfully, neither is going to be *completely* crowd-free, especially in high season.
Les Baux: Even with the crowds, you find pockets of quiet. Get there EARLY (like, before 10 am) to beat the tour groups, wander away from the main castle area, and soak in the views in peace.
Sanary: Better in the off-season, but quieter areas exist: stroll along the port early in the morning or evening, or head to the beaches a bit further out of town.
Transportation – how easy is it to get around? Should I rent a car? (I hate driving!)
Ugh... driving on the Riviera is a whole *thing*. So much traffic. And parking? Forget about it.
Les Baux: You pretty much *need* a car. The village is high up, and public transport is limited. Prepare for a winding drive with *stunning* views (if you can pay attention to them!).
Sanary: You *can* get there by train and bus. If you're just sticking to Sanary, you might survive without a car. Walking is great. But if you want to explore the surrounding area, a car is helpful. Get ready to deal with that driving...
So, you haven't exactly... declared a winner. Which one is *better*? (COME ON!)
AARGH! Okay, fine. Honestly? It depends. Do you want jaw-dropping history and views? Pick Les Baux. Expect to pay a premium. Do you want delicious food, a lively atmosphere, and a charming village vibe? Go to Sanary. Also, the market is to die for.
**My heart?** If I were forced to choose, and I’m just talking *right now*, I’d probably pick Sanary. That market, man. I still dream of those baguettes. But I can't lie. Days later, Les Baux’s views still pop in my head.
Anything ELSE I should know before I go? Secret tips? Hidden gems? Random advice?
Okay, gather 'round. Here's the unvarnished truth:
Les Baux: * Wear good walking shoes. The hills are STEEP. * Bring a hat and sunscreen. The sun is brutal. * Don't be afraid to wander off the main paths. You'll find more of the magic.
Sanary: * Go to the market early! The best stuff goes fast. * Learn a few basic French phrases. The locals appreciate it. * Consider staying in a nearby town and day-tripping. Sanary is in aYour Stay Hub
